In the small, out of the way place that once was the Aurora Bistro now sits The Wallflower, owned by couple Matt and Lisa Hewitt. It’s only been open since the first of the year, and, sadly, Lisa and Matt are “headless” in the chef department. Headless, but looking to be headed.

When I spoke with Lisa, she told me this was really a family affair, right down to her participation cooking on the line. She also told me that the menu, in fact, taps into her motherly wisdom. I have a mother and she fed me well, so, in my opinion, this is a good thing. As for selling this brave concept to the rest of the “trendy” Vancouverites, I fear this might be a bit of a battle. But I really believe that her biggest advantage is being somewhat “out of the way” of the firing line of those snootier than thou. That curse I wish on no one.

The first thing I noticed about The Wallflower upon visiting was the interior; nothing crazy or trendy, just a cozy little spot that’s both warm and inviting. The seating was comfortable, and the ambiance rather tolerable. Aside from the giant Plasma above the bar playing cartoons silently, at no time did I feel uncomfortable in any way. As a matter of fact, there are flowers on the wall; it’s not just a name! My wife and I were there to meet friends who know enough about restaurants to tell between good and bad, but not much more. They had ordered drinks by the time I arrived, so the “help” had been not much more than a casual nuisance at this point.

We ordered. My wife and I shared their rendition of the classic duck spring roll. The dish came promptly, and while warm and not too soggy, I noticed the blandness was a bit overpowering. It was simply there not hurting anyone, doing its job quieting hunger to a dull roar, but nothing really beyond that. The sauce had a bit of zip to it, but all in all not much more. I felt that it may have been pre-made or some sort of dressed-up Sysco creation, which I might add isn’t a bad thing. Most good barbecue sauces have some sort of store bought goodness to help them become a much finer creation, but I would say in this case the bottled sauce was the creation. And by that I mean nothing struck me out the ordinary, keeping in mind it’s just a sauce.

My main course was fish and chips. Yes, the classic British delicacy and, once again, not bad. They offered one and two piece selections of their finest halibut dipped in a rather bland beer batter served with fries and tartar. I found the batter a fairy typical mix of beer, flour, S&P, and the fries possibly store-bought; again nothing to rant and rave about. All in all, I found no error in the method of culinary expertise as far as proper temperatures and preparation etc. In fact, the dish was quite tasty, and I rather enjoyed in as a whole. It showed general care and effort in its creation.

The rest of the table’s food was much the same. My wife had some sort of wrap, what kind escapes me. I do remember that when I asked about her food she merely shrugged and turned to the large flat-screen T.V. to avoid any more harassment on the subject. I’m assuming it was fairly typical blandness fused with nothing of any consequence to the art of culinary expression; just generally good food. And that’s it.

As for the service, I could tell that we were experiencing an unqualified and unprofessional anomaly of a server, who had managed to schmooze his way in to a position with this unsuspecting establishment. His banter was a mix of profanity and awkward silence reminiscent of an episode of the Office. He may have single-handedly ruined the whole dining experience had the food not been ok….at best. I have to admit I do not plan to make this review a bad egg to spoil the bunch. And in light of the fact that Lisa and Matt have worked hard to see this venture succeed (that much is very clear just on sight), I will not discredit their establishment over one hired help’s arrogantly condescending nature. All this aside, it was my first impression. Unfortunately, it was not a great one. I’ll leave it at that.

A member of our party had a hankering for desert and ordered off an ever changing desert menu that would be difficult to put on paper because of its frequent alterations. Outside of the wait and the collection of profanity and tasteless banter that accompanied the item in question, I think that may have been the best part of the whole meal. I love a dessert menu that is made entirely in-house and changes every day. That my friends, is the stuff that dreams are made of. And made with great care, at that. When I tried a little taste, my response was an orgasmic roll of the eyes. 5 stars for my piece of apple pie goodness.

It’s obvious to me that after talking to Lisa, the server isn’t a reflection of their overall service. And Murphy’s Law was in full effect on this one. Let me say that it isn’t a bad restaurant. They showed me a lot in the learning curve department, but an almost equilibrium of potential in the success department. I mean that sincerely. The food, though somewhat lacking in taste and creativity, was prepared and presented well, and the price was right. I believe with a few tweaks here and there (and a better server) that success is right around the corner. That said, for a Tuesday night with a wallet on the light side and a stomach following suit, this is a solid place to get some “comfort” food. Hey, it could have been uncomfortable, after all…

The Wallflower Modern Diner

2420 Main St. (north of Broadway}

604-633-9588

Of course, we all appreciate Vancouver city planners for incorporating tasteful green spaces admist the urban metropolis. But a 24 hectacre farm a mere 10 minute walk from the UBC Campus? People think I’m kidding when I tell them of this student-driven, community-minded gem situated a few miles from the main campus.

The Farm is a student-driven initiative where students,
faculty, staff, and the local community have been working together to
create a place where anyone can come to learn, live and value the
connection between land, food and community. The ultimate goal of the farm is to retain and
re-create existing farm and forest lands at the
University of British Columbia into an internationally
significant centre for sustainable agriculture, forestry
and food systems.

The UBC Farm represents a methodology which is important to focus on as we transition towards a more quality and local approach to our food. Walking around the farm, seeing the children’s garden and watching the dedicated volunteers operating the greenhouses and garden plots, it really imposes a strong message about what a community of individuals operating towards a common goal can accomplish.

I just returned from a private stakeholder meeting at City Hall today, regarding the potential revisal of city liquor regulations.  Yes, this is an issue of concern and interest for members of the food and beverage industry, but it also represents policy decisions that will undoubtedly affect the general public.

The nature of this gathering is discussed in greater detail on the main page, so I won’t go into too many specifics.  What I will address is the unfortunate reality that the public (or absent industry pros, for that matter) has no forum with which to A.) be kept abreast of this and other issues and B.) direct questions and comments to other concerned and applicable parties.

There were approximately 40 industry professionals in attendance, all sitting around a large round table or in the audience.  As I watched the discussion unfold, it once again reinforced my belief that a collection of individuals, when given an outlet for their opinions, will seize that opportunity and can have an immense amount of influence when it comes to solving problems that affect their lives, communities and businesses.

This, folks, is a collection of people with similar vested interests coming together to have their voices heard for a common goal.  There simply isn’t enough of this going on in our industry, and I think it’s deplorable that the public has no easily accessible channel with which to be heard on issues that affect them.

But in a world where people have easy access to technology and information in the convenience of their own spaces, there should be an online forum for comments, questions, suggestions regarding this and any industry-related issue.  Social and business networking is the best way to gather information on a topic that is relevant to you.

My suggestion to the city of Vancouver or any other organization or industry would be to create a specific network that caters to the needs and voices of its members.  That’s one of the reasons we started Industry Blender:  Because the Facebook and Myspace models have showed that people need to and will congregate with their peers if given the opportuniy.  We need to be the catalysts for this change.

Social networks make our lives richer and easier and give us the opportunity to have our voices heard.  They make possible meaningful and profitable connections with people we never would have met before.  Their power is immeasurable, and it means you will change the way business is done in the future.  You’re the ones conducting the business, so it is imperative that you be front and centre and totally in control of your own fates.

Gathering physically is very important and can never be replaced, but a virtual network is a room that never gets full.  And it requires no driving or schedule juggling to get there.  We could suggest to City Hall or any other decision making organisation to make available a forum where people can voice their opinions on issues.  The technology and ability to do this is before us, it’s just a matter of organising and stratifying interests.

If the City started a network which allowed restaurant, lounge, bar owners and their patrons to comment on the liquor regulation issue, which people are very passionate about, you can be assured there would be a mob of support and comments.  It’s amazing how all these old and established organisations haven’t caught on to the idea.  No matter.  We’ll work together to educate the business world and show them how things have evolved in the 21st century.  We’ll give our customers and colleagues the opportunity to be collectively heard, and we’ll be on the forefront because of it.

So…what does this mean for us?  It means that the Food, Beverage and Hospitality Industry in Vancouver can be on the forefront of this change which market research shows is going to be in full swing in the next 2-4 years.  We’re a progressive bunch that knows our city and customers, and recognise the need to facilitate this change. 

But change is slow to take place, especially for bohemoth, slow moving companies where it takes much more time for things to get done because they’re reluctant to alter their business models.  But our industry is primed for this transition, and we can get in on the ground floor of this transition.

Interesting Health Study

March 5, 2009

Hello out there in food, beverage and hospitality land.  You’ll want to put down that Harvey’s burger when you hear this new study.

In a survey of 52 countries, it was reported that people who eat diets high in legumes, vegetables and whole grains are 30% less likely to suffer a heart attack.

Conversely, people who eat diets high in sugars and fats are 35% more likey to have a heart attack.

A number of schools throughout the province have began aggressively replacing fatty, salty cafeteria fare such as pop and chips with juice, vegetables and other healthier options.

In Vancouver, schools have hired a nutritionist to fill the snack void by introducing foods that are comprobable in taste but healthier, thus tempering the transition.

Oriental food is said to be excellent because it is flavourful and heavy on essentials such as soy and rice.

Vancouver is the fittest city in Canada, with a 10.9 per cent obesity rate.

When my girlfriend and I first visited Vancouver before moving here from North Carolina two years ago, I remember her telling me about a local Indian restaurant she was dying to try after seeing it featured in a glowing review by the New York Times. Having just a mediocre interest in Indian cuisine, I brushed Rachel’s comment aside and continued to circle in my travel guide all the fish and chips joints we’d be visiting.

We arrived via train from Seattle to Pacific Central Station. It was a beautifully sunny late August morning; the city absolutely shone before us. We had made arrangements to stay with acquaintances of our good friend and neighbour in the States. Armed with an address around Ontario St. and 13th Ave. and a not-so-detailed map, we decided to hop this thing called the “SkyTrain” and go west. Looking at the map like a dog that had just been shown a card trick (maps have never been my strength), I decided that west was towards Commercial Drive. We quickly (or should I say, slowly) became lost.

To make a long story less embarrassing, Rachel convinced me to do the sensible thing and ask for directions. At Broadway Station we were told to take the 99 B-line to Main Street and walk the few blocks to our destination. After obtaining a more helpful map, we jumped on the bus confident that we finally knew what we were doing.

Upon arriving at Main St., I pulled out our travel guide and searched for a place to stop for coffee and a bite to eat. As I was flipping through the book, I heard Rachel exclaim, “baby, look!” I peered up and saw her enthusiastically pointing to a newspaper article pasted on a window. “It’s Chutney Villa!”

“Who’s that, Ché Guevara’s cousin?” I asked, trying to determine if The Windjammer really was in this neighbourhood.
“No, it’s the Indian Restaurant I told you about. Here’s the review I read in the New York Times.”

Amazingly, we had stumbled upon (placed in front of, quite literally) the very restaurant Rachel had wanted to visit the most while we were in town. Not one to take these fateful occurrences lightly, she saw it as a sign we must go in immediately. I was too exhausted to put up a fight.

“Please tell me they have coffee.”

Now I have nothing against Indian food or its many loyal fans; I’m just not that into it. I’d had it only a few times in dreadfully unauthentic establishments (Sammy’s Samosas, anyone?) but I decided to give a well-endorsed purveyor the benefit of the doubt.

I would argue that Chutney Villa’s location and outside décor are both favourable and detrimental. While they’ve become quite prolific in Vancouver, for those who don’t know they’re located just off the busy Broadway Ave. and Main St. intersection, which makes it ideal for access by public transportation but a tricky spot to park. I must also say I’m not a fan of its eave overhang-as-sign, though it is a highly-visible orange. To me it suggests “Angelo’s Take-Out Spanakopita Hut” when it could be a classier, less algae-ridden representation. But they also say the “hole-in-the-wall” approach is charming. I suppose it’s ultimately about the food and service.

It is worth noting that the restaurant looks and feels better in the evening than it does during the day; it also doesn’t function very well near capacity as some of the tables are a bit too close together in this small space. I would recommend 5:30pm on a Friday or Saturday winter evening as the absolute best time for a visit: sparsely filled and quiet with relaxed servers.

At night it’s a very cozy and romantic experience, with soft lighting bringing out the warm espresso hues and dampening the mishmash of colours and Indian decorations. During the day, it’s easier to notice all the costume-shop clutter on the walls (at least it’s not for sale…oh wait, it is). I can’t tell if it’s trying to be upscale or “ask me about my take-out specials.” I wish they would decide. Optimistically, the interior toes a fine line between tasteful representation and self-imposed caricature. But honestly, the food and service bring it over the top.

This is South Indian Cuisine, so you won’t find butter chicken, naan and tandoori platters as these are fare of the north. The menu is anchored by broth-based chicken, lamb, prawn and fish curries, with an emphasis on lentils, dosas and rotating chutney selections.

For my first visit I took advantage of the lunch special, which for $9.99 comes with your choice of a chicken, lamb or fish entrée, rice on the side, lentil soup and a papadam. I ordered the fish curry, which was a touch acidic from the tomatoes but had the right amount of tamarind spice and flavour, with succulently tender portions of fish. Rachel had the lamb curry which she said wasn’t quite as spicy as she’d hoped, but overall tender and expertly flavoured. The lentil soup was just the right consistency and had a pleasantly rich and creamy finish.

When we went again for dinner months later, I was better able to gauge the service and sample more of the complete menu. The servers were very friendly and enthusiastic, patiently and knowledgeably explaining the nature of each dish and with what it was most ideally combined. I knew we’d be getting a lot of small samples, so as a novice I was happy for tips on how to put everything together.

I ordered the mild Chicken Kurma curry and Rachel again ordered the Madras Lamb Curry. Our taali-style options (as opposed to ala carte which has less side dishes) came with pachadi, which is boiled vegetables flavoured with coconut and chilies, rasam soup, vada, a lentil and potato-based savoury donut, rice, three chutneys, crispy crepe and rice pudding for dessert.

Each dish was served in an individual metal ramekin housed on a metal serving platter. The chutneys change from day to day; tonights were onion, pear and cranberry. The best part about the small sampling arrangement is the opportunity to experiment with different combinations, experiencing a number of different flavours. The rasam soup was really sour, but great when used as a dip for the donut, crepe and rice. The vegetables were great with the curry, which was a bit too spicy for me even with the tempering yogurt included with the entrée. The curries were really sweet and great when combined with the tender chicken. Sorry, but I can’t report on the lamb as I don’t eat red meat. You’re just going to have to go in and try it for yourselves.

On a side note, I’d like to mention that Chutney Villa is a member of Oceanwise, uses metal serving dishes in their catering and offers them for sale to customers in lieu of Styrofoam or plastic take-away containers. While this may be avoided by some due to convenience issues, I applaud the sentiment and hope alternatives to disposables will become more common practice for restaurants in the future.

Overall, these and all subsequent experiences have been great and I continue to go back regularly. Chutney Villa is a friendly spot and the best South Indian cuisine for your buck. No matter what your taste, you’ll get an authentic meal, a different bite every time, and the chance to take home that Raja Ravi Varma print you see on the wall.

By Lauren Mote

Once again I found myself at Voya Restaurant a few nights ago. Vancouver’s top bartenders congregated in front of Voya’s bar to sample some of bar manager Jay Jones’ new creations, and then sit down to a three-course meal, where each dish was spiked with either Grand Marnier Cordon Rouge, or Navan Vanilla cognac. This was a dinner to qualify a top bartender for the Grand Marnier Summit in Vail, Colorado, …by invitation only. Amongst the smiling faces that evening, Chambar’s Wendy McGuinness, Cin-Cin’s Colin Turner, George’s Shaun Layton, Boneta’s Simon Kaulback, Hamilton Street Grill’s Ryan Cheverie, Granville Room’s Trevor Kallies, and The Fairmont Hotel’s Marco Pelliccia, and of course, I was representing Chow Restaurant, and had a smile big and bright like the Cherish cat.

Although this was a “bartender appreciation dinner”, what would come next really peaked everyone’s curiosity and competitive side. Emily Patterson, representative to the Grand Marnier brand in Vancouver, explained why we were rubbing elbows together, followed by the rules and regulations surrounding an exciting event in the very near future.

“GRAND MARNIER and NAVAN are looking to hire the nation’s best bartenders as consultants to participate in the third GRAND MARNIER and NAVAN Mixology Summit in Vail, Colorado (Sunday, April 5 –Tuesday, April 7, 2009). If selected, GRAND MARNIER and NAVAN will use your skills to help build their great brands.  In addition to learning from your mixology expertise, we will have fun in Vail — skiing, snow tubing, seminars, dining and parties.” (http:/www.mixologysummit.com/Event.aspx)

Winners across North America will be selected using a points system. Each will receive points for attending the dinner at Voya for starters, followed by significant points given for original recipes submitted by the mixologist for the “Grand Marnier Encyclopedia of Cocktails” (each participant will receive one), and concluded by the cocktails’ addition to the bartender’s cocktail program at their home restaurant.

Voya Restaurant’s Sous Chef Tret Jordan prepared a delicious three course accompaniment to match Marnier – Lapostolle owned Chateau de Sancerre (Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc) and Chile’s Casa Lapostolle (Bordeaux black grape varieties) and Jay Jones’ original cocktails that seemed to continuously emerge from the bar throughout the evening.

Grand Marnier would send us home today with a 750mL bottle of their signature Cordon Rouge, and their Navan Vanilla Cognac to peak the taste-buds and creative brain-waves. On their official website for the Grand Marnier summit in Vail, it states that each mixologist must submit 5 original recipes; 4 made from the signature Cordon Rouge orange-infused cognac, and 1 from the natural Navan Vanilla Cognac – after tonight’s incredible display of creativity, Jay Jones already has a significant head-start.

Be on the lookout, and support your local bartenders as they strive towards Vail, and have a chance at becoming the next Iron “Bar” Chef. Other participating restaurants/bartenders include DB Bistro Moderne and Brown’s Social Room.

For more information on the Vail, Colorado event please visit

http:/www.mixologysummit.com/Event.aspx

For more brand specific information, please visit

http://grandmarnier.com

http://navanworld.com

Editor’s Note:  Please visit Lauren Mote’s fantastic food blog and give her a shout out at www.poivremedia.ca

Sharpening House

March 4, 2009

Sharpening House

Knife Sharpening Master: Sean Shib

This skilled gentleman hails from Japan, where he apprenticed and learned his fine craft. Having worked for Shun, he understands carbon steel blades.

He will sharpen 5 blades for $20.00 in 1 to 2 hours turn around time, based on how busy he is.

He can handle all sorts of blades, serrated or straight. He also carries and impressive selection of fine, carbon steel, Japanese knives.

5331 W. Boulevard (37 & Arbutus)
Vancouver, B.C.
604.266.2656

Hours of Operation: 10:30 am to 5:00 pm- Monday to Saturday

Grocery delivery businesses have become increasingly popular Vancouver over the past few years, especially those offering organic produce.  A few of these businesses include Spud!, Stong’s Market (not exclusively a delivery outfit), Organics@Home and Green Earth Organics.  Haven’t having tried the former three, I would like to talk about the one I did sampled, Green Earth Organics.

The company was started in Vancouver and expanded to Toronto.  How it works is Green Earth Organics makes available a number of different produce options, of which some items come as part of a standard “bin” package and some are customizable.  In Vancouver, we have the advantage of a favourable climate which allows for a lot of fresh, local produce options (relative to Canada) year-round.  These selections include white button mushrooms, red beets, Asian pears and granny smith apples.  Here’s an example of this week’s bin, which is advertised as a portion for one and costs $27:
3 Gala Apples (BC), 1 field cucumber, 1 tomato, 2 navel oranges (CA), 1 green chard (CA), 1 romaine lettuce, 1lb banana, 1lb yellow onion (WA), 1 Star Ruby Grapefruit, 1lb red chieftain potatoes (BC), 1lb carrots.

They also offer medium bins which include a few more selections for $35 and are geared towards couples.  The family bins are $46 and include additional selections such as red beets, Oranghetti squash and white sweet potatoes.  The bin is a plastic Tupperware-esq tote and is available with a $20 deposit.  They switch out your bin every week or two weeks, depending on the requested frequency of your delivery.  In addition to produce, cleaning products, breads and cereals, and snacks are also available, which can be viewed upon creating an account which Green Earth Organics uses to manage your delivery schedule and payments.

I researched the company and discovered they employ a collection of very smart and cost-effective marketing strategies:  tout the benefits of the products within the context of the industry, make contributions or announce support on behalf worthy organizations, advertise through testimonials, have members of the company and community blog on their behalf, and write articles which cite research and sources that reinforce the importance of their endeavor.

“Studies have also shown that the average family spends about 2 hours grocery shopping per week.  This adds up to approximately 104 hours per year.  I’m sure you will be able to find something else to do with your time!”

They also clearly understand their industry and target customer base very well:  socially conscious, environmentally-minded progressives who are active in promoting causes, and who may or may not have the income to support the cost of convenience, but believe enough in the idea that they are willing to make it work.  I can say with confidence that their marketing acumen drives the success of their business, and congratulations to their executives for earning it through their intelligence and business sense.

I was compelled to try the service because I had a 50% coupon from the Green Zebra Book (a $30 book and well worth the price).  The website has been recently revamped and looks much more professional (the old one was very amateurish, almost campy, and even though it reflected their customer base, I agree with the changes they made).  I created an account and could have placed an order online, but I was feeling impatient with technology and decided to order directly over the phone (very 90’s, I know).

I was greeted by an indescribably enthusiastic girl named Melissa, who as I have discovered from subsequent conversations, is an expert customer service professional who never has a bad day.  If she doesn’t love the job and company with all her heart, then create an organic Oscar and read her name from the envelope at the microphone.  Melissa explained that their delivery schedule put their driver in our neighbourhood on Monday, and we would receive our bin (we ordered the family size at $23 with the coupon) after 5:00pm.

The delivery arrived at 8:00pm the following Monday.  My first impression of the bin was that it didn’t seem like that much food for $46, though I understand the cost of delivery and convenience is also included in the price.  I was happy with everything except for the condition of the apples (a little bruised and mealy), the pears (slightly bruised) and the onions (a few were moldy only a day after delivery).  Since I have time to go to the grocery store, and didn’t really want to pay the convenience charges, I decided to cancel my order after one delivery.

I had signed up for the bi-weekly delivery option, and I called the next week to cancel before the Thursday deadline so as to not lock in the next delivery.  I told Melissa I was discontinuing service, and unlike some instances when this can change the tone of the conversation to become condescending, less friendly or uncomfortable, Melissa maintained her cheerful rapport and I felt no pressure or awkwardness after stating my decision.  She did ask why I wasn’t continuing service, at which time I mentioned the deficiencies in some of the produce.  Without asking that I relinquish the items, she offered to replace them for free when her driver came by to pick up the bin.  I was so impressed with the gesture that I declined the replacement offer (which surprised her, I think) and told her to keep them for the next person.  I noticed later that this is company policy, which will further win over the support of their customers.

By focusing on the intangible details i.e. exemplary customer service, spot-on marketing and targeting and impressive guarantees, Green Earth Organics has built a successful operation that is primed for longevity and steady growth.  This company has all the components of a successful business, and proves that with the right approach you can sell just about anything.  Green Earth Organics Ketchup Popsicles?  I won’t even take off my white gloves.

Please visit www.greenearthorganics.com to place your order.

The Hawk

March 3, 2009

In a hip, food-lovers paradise just north of the US border, there only exists a small handful of “born and bred” Vancouver chefs that get catastrophic amounts of attention. After chef Rob Feenie, of acclaimed restaurants Lumiere and Feenie’s, was publicly ousted last fall, all focus has rolled back to the charismatic man who quietly changed the Vancouver restaurant scene over a seven year period. One can only imagine how difficult it is to be this all-star chef with the need for tenancy… if you haven’t already, please meet chef David Hawksworth, the Vancouver-born superstar behind the wheel of Top Table’s West Restaurant.

Since his departure from West in late 2007, David now finds himself in between dwellings – his baby, “Hawksworth” set to eventually open at the Hotel Georgia, at Howe & Georgia Sts in late 2009, still has a lengthy construction period ahead of them. Don’t let the circulating rumours fool you, this is one of the only Vancouver restaurants in the city that will push through on schedule, despite the crumbling global economy. Vancouverites were surprised to learn that other plans have caved unexpectedly; we couldn’t help but become anxious when all the promotional signs and John Deere trucks disappeared from a neighbouring site, once housing the framework for the Ritz Carleton back in October. A new trend seems to be forming in Vancouver’s restaurant scene, but is there really a connection between the global economic status and the downfall of west coast staples, Cafe di Medici and Aurora Bistro? Or were these restauranteurs trailing behind the edible trends for a while? Be as it may, if restaurants can survive until the 2010 Olympics, we will see the arrival of tens of thousands of people, including athletes and spectators; then the world will discover exactly what we’ve been hiding all along, the food.

David has been keeping extremely busy since his departure from West Restaurant almost a year ago. He has a private catering company, “Hawksworth Catering”. David’s services are acquired mostly by way of word-of-mouth, although the Globe and Mail recently published a Q&A with David regarding his current activities.  More often then not, David’s catering clients are previous West diners or “in-the-know” Vancouver food enthusiasts, but some readers will be pleasantly surprised to learn that David travels well – doing an event here and there on Vancouver Island; perhaps the short trek to Seattle will become an option?

I have been privy to working with “Hawksworth Catering” since April. Generally, the parties that we have done together have been good – no twisted clients, and no disastrous kitchen facilities. However, I did have to build a BBQ at one event; but imagine all you had was a toaster oven and a blow-torch, now that’s frightening. With the help of Vancouver experts in certain genres of cuisine and fare, David has some valuable assistance in creating a themed dinner – an authentic all-Indian food and decor themed birthday party for 9 within a multi-million dollar compound? Yes this did happen. Even the simplest 5 course lunch for 8 with thoughtful wine pairings and a limitless budget, David offers something that not many others can – the presence of a celebrity chef cooking in your home – but he’s still “humble pie”. Speaking of humility, I especially remember working a catering event in a “staged home” in West Vancouver; the owner was looking to sell quickly. It was decked out top to bottom, and we weren’t allowed to wear our shoes. So there we were, a bunch of shoeless joes, David and his assistant working in the open kitchen with rather attractive socks, and myself and another server doing the same. It was funny watching David and his socks talk about each dish from behind the peninsula bar looking onto the dining-room crowd.


Going back farther, I recall the first party that I worked with David on. It  was a 50th birthday party for a previous guest at West Restaurant, George Macintosh. An über successful lawyer, Mr. Macintosh had just moved into a beautiful house in Vancouver’s prestigious Shaunessey area. His new home was thoughtfully landscaped, inside and out. Although it was somewhat distracting with the repeat button jammed on some London Beat song, I still couldn’t lose focus on David and his assistant, Mark Perrier (sous chef at Cibo Trattoria), recreate some old classics from the West Restaurant days, like beet and goat cheese salad; roasted tomato and basil soup; some new innovations like a dungeness crab quenelle with red peppers; tarlets and mini quiche. Dessert never fails either, birthday cakes especially tailored by chocolatier Thomas Haas in West Vancouver; rich for the rich.

The catering events we do with David are high profile, fun and we get that craved social aspect – reconnecting with people we used to work with – back in the days of West and the original Lumiere; it made the conversation over Pisco Sours much more enjoyable afterwards. While eyeballing his book collection 3 weeks ago, I was mid-sentence asking about chef Marco Pierre White (former mentor), when out from the kitchen comes flying a container… low and behold, inside, lies an enormous white truffle; it stares back at me. The truffle would be the star ingredient for David’s 3rd course at the most recent event that we did together, where carnoli rice, golden chantrelles and Chablis Grand Cru welcome the white truffle with open arms. I call this the “industry’s risotto”; others call it expensive. Hogwash. There was a bit of struggle to get the truffle back from me, but boy was it worth it when I had my own bowl later that afternoon.

One secret to share in David’s ongoing success in Vancouver’s food scene is his dedication to teaching younger cooks to follow instruction and instinct. We would be hard-pressed to find a cook amongst a kitchen brigade in the higher quality restaurants in Vancouver today, that didn’t have a connection to David’s mentorship – whether on the line at West Restaurant, or in the audience at Barbara-Jo’s Books to Cooks watching a demonstration on “sous vide cooking”, or pulling up a bar stool next to him at the Irish Heather in Gastown for a pint, the guy has presence.

Friends and hungry people alike, we’re awaiting David’s return to the kitchen so we too may ask the chef to cook for us.

For info and any catering inquiries, please visit www.hawksworthcatering.com or visit www.davidhawksworth.ca


The sixth annual Gold Metal Plates competition, celebrating the trio of premiere local cuisine, internationally-acclaimed Canadian wines and some of our most revered Olympic athletes, was held Wednesday, November 5th at the Westin Bayshore in downtown Vancouver.

The seeds for this enormously popular national event were planted right here in some of our local pubs, and its grassroots organizers have seen it grow to include six cities and hundreds of restaurants and athletes across the country. To date, Gold Metal Plates has generated a combined total of $2.3 for Canada’s Olympic and Paralympic athletes.

All hands were on deck as the venue was bulging at the seams to host what may go down as the city’s most elite event of 2008. Front and centre as we walked in was a large round table featuring all the judges for the competition. They worked from this spot all evening (maybe I’ll send them a resumé) as the event unfolded.

The wine available for auction was beautifully presented in the centre of one of the rooms, and some of the other available prizes in the raffle included a Napa Sonoma Wine Country Cycling Experience, an amazing Grand Canyon Adventure, and the chance to meet and dine with Canucks legend Trevor Linden and retired coach Pat Quinn.

I think it was all the winning energy in the room because all twelve of the competitors brought their “A” games to the table, which, fortunately for the attendees, translated into offerings which put a whole new meaning to the term, “culinary arts.” The dishes were a dream to behold, and I sincerely hoped my eyes wouldn’t become too big for my stomach (I myself trained for the event by leaving my wallet at home so I won’t be tempted to buy lunch).

For the chefs and their crews, who worked from behind white tables which lined the circumferences of two large rooms, it must have felt like a busy evening dinner service. They showcased their masterful multi-tasking skills by seamlessly preparing and plating the dishes while simultaneously entertaining the jovial and eager crowd. And when the athletes weren’t meeting with and kindly offering personal photos to the guests, they managed to jump behind the line and help prepare food.

Drum-roll please…After much difficult deliberation, the judges selected Frank Pabst and Blue Water Café + Raw Bar as the 2008 Gold Metal Plates Champions! Their beautifully prepared ocean harvest cuisine wowed everyone in attendance, as they’ll add this award to their already impressive list of accolades.

The Silver Medalist was “The Island’s Project”- featured chef Hidekazu Tojo. Tojo’s creatively presented dishes and wonderfully magnetic personality wowed the judges and once again proved that the conversation on great Japanese cuisine starts and ends with him (no wonder I have to wait so long in line to get a table at his restaurant – but it’s worth it every time!)

And last but certainly not least, the Bronze Medal was awarded to Andrey Durbach of Parkside, Pied a Terre and La Buca Restaurants. Chef Durbach also made winners of Olympic rower David Calder and Stag’s Hollow Winery, whom he was paired with for the competition.

Over 500 people came out to enjoy the spectacular creations from some of the finest chefs and winemakers in the country, and also rub elbows with our elite Olympians. With all eyes now squarely on Vancouver and 2010, it’s appropriate we continue to show our support for the men and women who dedicate their lives so that Canada is always proudly represented on the world’s stage.

So congratulations to Frank Pabst and everyone at Blue Water Café for reaching the top of the podium this year, and to all those who gave so generously of themselves to make the evening a resounding success. Our British Columbia representatives will now head to Banff in February, 2009 for the Canadian Culinary Championships. Good luck to all, and by next year the Winter Olympic Games will only be a few months away!